Eat, Sip, Gaze: A Few Rooftops Rendezvous in the Marais - Paris, France

There are some secrets that you hesitate to share, not because you want to keep them all to yourself, but because they are so magical that you fear the charm might slip away once too many people know. The rooftop restaurants in the Marais—oh, how they belong to that rare category of enchantment. Today, with you, I’m opening that velvet curtain.

Picture this: a soft Parisian twilight settling over slate rooftops, the scent of fresh herbs and grilled seabass rising from the plate before you, a flute of champagne catching the last glint of sun as the Eiffel Tower begins to sparkle in the distance. This is not a dream. This is dinner in the Marais, but not just anywhere—above it all.

The first time I stumbled upon Au Top Restaurant, it felt like discovering a speakeasy in the clouds. Perched at 93 rue Vieille du Temple, in a building that gives nothing away from the street, it’s a place that truly earns its name. The cuisine walks a bright line between French tradition and Mediterranean lightness—grilled fish, seasonal vegetables, and mezze that smell of sun-soaked coastlines. I once took my group of close friends there, and as the sun dipped behind the Pompidou’s glimmering metal, they turned to me and whispered, “this is so magical!” It was. And it is. The dome of Saint-Paul, the hum of Paris below, and the laughter rising like bubbles from our glasses.

Photo Credit: https://www.au-top.paris

Not far away, yet hidden even more discreetly, is La Table Cachée—Michel Roth’s culinary hideout atop the BHV. To find it, you must wander through lingerie. Yes, really. Past the 5th floor’s silken intimates, behind a curtain, is a door to one of the best-kept secrets of the Right Bank. I was introduced to it by a Parisian friend who tell me the history of this place over our perfectly poached fish and morels. What makes this place special is not only the pedigree of its chef—Roth, who won the Bocuse d'Or and has presided over the Ritz kitchens—but the warmth. The staff remember your name. The view is the rooftops you’d sketch if you had a pencil and a good breeze: zinc, angles, potted geraniums, and pigeons in flight. All the Paris you’ve dreamed of, served with a seasonal tart.

Photos Credit: https://www.bhv.fr/magasins/vivez-bhv/un-petit-creux/la-table-cachee-par-michel-roth

Now, allow me one indulgence: Le Tout Paris, just outside the Marais. I know, it’s technically in the 1st arrondissement, but I would be remiss not to include it. The brasserie sits atop Cheval Blanc, the hotel reborn from the Art Deco husk of La Samaritaine, that grand old department store beloved by Parisians for over a century. From up here, on the 7th floor, the view is so cinematic it should come with a soundtrack by Michel Legrand. The Seine, the Louvre, the island, Notre-Dame beyond—it’s all there, golden and glowing. I celebrated the upcoming of one of my new magazine issues here, ordering a truffled chicken with match potatoes and scribbling the final lines of my Letter of the Editor while sipping champagne. The waiter smiled, “Madame, this is the best office in Paris.” She was right.

Photo Credit: https://www.letoutparis.fr

And then, for a voyage into legend, you must climb the stairs of La Tour d’Argent. This is not a place, it is a myth. Since 1582, it has sat sentinel over the Seine, and when you dine here, you do so in the company of emperors, presidents, and poets. Did you know that President Kennedy dined here during a state visit in 1961, marveling at the view of Notre-Dame? And that Orson Welles claimed their pressed duck was the best meal of his life? There is something solemn about it—maybe it’s the weight of the starched linens, or the gravitas of the wine list (which houses over 300,000 bottles). But then, you look out the window and see the soft light on the river, the birds flying past the Île Saint-Louis, and you are a child again, discovering Paris for the first time. The duck? Yes, it is legendary. But the memory of that view? Even more so.

Photos Credit: https://tourdargent.com

Now, I promised you some honesty. There are a few other rooftop spots in the Marais area that are… shall we say… more about the selfie than the soul. The terrace at Le Perchoir Marais, for example, offers a lively crowd but can feel more nightclub than nuanced. Le Georges at the top of the Pompidou—spectacular view, yes, but often underwhelming food and rushed service. And Maison Maison, right by the river, is charming in theory but inconsistent in practice. If you’re seeking heart and flavor, stick with my first four.

A final tip? Go early or go late. Rooftops have their golden hour. Between 6:30 and 8:30 p.m., you’ll capture the magic that artists like Utrillo and Chagall tried to bottle in paint. Bring a scarf, even in summer—the breeze can surprise you. And never hesitate to linger with a digestif or café; in Paris, lingering is a virtue.

I hope these places become your sanctuaries as they’ve become mine. From high above these rooftops, the city opens itself like a novel, with every street a sentence and every rooftop a punctuation mark. All that’s left is to sit back, sip, and read the skyline.